Restaurant Hotel
de Vendee rue de la Republique, Fontenay le
Comte |
Restaurants
of the Vendee, Fontenay le Comte | Easting out in the Vendee
Hôtel de Vendée
Today’s undertaking
for Trevor and I was to visit the Hôtel de Vendée with Trevor’s long term friend
Christophe. He has been a great help to Trevor in his dealings with the French
authorities and though he doesn’t speak any English and Trevor’s French, by his
own admission, leaves much to be desired, they seem to understand one another
pretty well. I had heard a lot about Christophe but this was our first meeting,
which always makes for an interesting time. Christophe had heard good reports of
the restaurant from many of his friends and so we approached the task with our
normal zeal and relish.



The first thing to say was that this was a typical French hotel
bar with dining, so you couldn’t exactly say that the décor was anything but
ordinary. The table tops were laminate and the place settings were plate sized
sheets of brown paper, I would have had no problem with this in a rustic
setting, but I would have expected something better in a hotel. To our right was
the bar’s pool table, thankfully no one wanted a game but even without players
it didn’t exactly add anything to the ambience of the place. I was encouraged
however as there were a few people dining, including I was told, a high ranking
official of the Vendéen Chamber of Commerce, with a very attractive young lady.
The young lady was in my direct eye line and was without doubt the best thing
visually in the room. Was the said official eating there because the food was
good, or was he there because it was a discreet place to meet a mistress? We
would never know the latter, after all she could have been his niece, but
hopefully we would soon learn about the food.
The menu was displayed on blackboards, which I found quite
encouraging as it indicated that everything was more likely to be fresh and that
the menu probably changed frequently. We all ordered the St Jacques (scallops),
the waiter said he would have to check as he thought that there were only two
portions remaining. We also all ordered the T Bone of veal. The waiter had yet
more encouraging news, saying that if any of us wanted the Tarte Tatin as a
sweet we needed to order there and then, as it was made to order and took a
minimum of twenty minutes. The wine list was not extensive, so we ordered a
glass of Sancerre to accompany the St Jacques and a Vendéen red for the rest of
the meal.
The three St. Jacques arrived and it seemed to me that the chef
had shared the two remaining portions between three plates adding a couple of
small fillets of red gurnard to each to extend the portions. This was in my
opinion a fundamental error. The St. Jacques were not copious enough to satisfy,
and I thought that they were probably from a tin. Though the red gurnard was
perfectly acceptable it wasn’t what we’d ordered. It would have been far better
in my opinion to admit to only having two portions remaining and asking one of
us to choose an alternative. I especially think this as I had made it perfectly
clear I would be happy to choose something else from the entree menu. The
Sancerre was however a perfect accompaniment to the dish, I enjoyed it more than
the food.
The T. Bone of veal and sauté potatoes arrived, with garlic cream
sauce which though tasty was unbalanced and overpowering, but the tragedy of
tragedies was that the veal was overcooked; overcooking veal in my opinion
completely negates the reason for eating it as it takes the subtleness out of
the flavour. The Vendéen red wine was acceptable if a bit ordinary. The wine’s
character however changed completely with the arrival of the cheese course, it
became a larger fruitier wine and was much better for it. Suffice to say, the
reason was probably that it was a poor choice of wine to accompany the veal.
Though it helped bring out the flavour of the wine the cheese was a
disappointment. There was no choice and we were served with two small slices of
cheese, one was camembert and the other was a blue cheese distinguished mainly
by the fact that it was so unmemorable I’ve forgotten its name.
I think that chef’s
speciality must be dessert as it was delightful, Christophe and I had the
Macaroon with strawberries and it was delicious and almost certainly home made.
Trevor had the Tarte Tatin which he said was very good, with the exception that
it was served with ice cream which he does not particularly like. He was given
no choice and he would have preferred crème fraîche or nothing at all rather
than ice cream.
We all had coffee and the bill arrived, it was 32 euros
a head, which I thought, though not exactly overpriced was far from good value
for money. The best parts of the meal for me were the view of the aforementioned
young lady, and the company none of which can be guaranteed if and when you
decide to visit. - Tate


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About the
author: Tate spends the summers in the Vendee and is passionate about good wine
and good food,he writes exclusively for the http://www.gites-with-pools.co.uk/
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